דניאל והילי מטיילים בעולם

This track was one of the reasons we came to NZ. It's a beautiful hike on sandy beaches with clear blue ocean. You can kayak walk or do a combination. It's like the tropical pardise you always dream to visit on your vacation. Well plans doesn't always come to be what you hopped they would. The magic of Abel Tasman is it's warm and sunny atmosphear. We visited it at autaum. This means it is not as crowded as summer times (more then 2 million visitors at high season!) but the weather is pretty shitty. We chose to do two days of kayaking and one day walking back. 
On the night before we were supposed to go it didn't stop pouring. (see the pic of our tent in the morning). The trip was cancelled by the kayay hiring company. The next day was better so we got an ok to go. We went, Part of the time it was sunny and calm, but at other times the ocean was against us. Strong off shore wind threatend to blow us into deep sea, we had to row as hard as we could just to stay in the same place. waves rocked our kayak, ocean spray mixed with rain washing our faces. Then the rowing became a chalange. Hilly got a little sea sick. We were cold and the muscles were acking. It was still beautifull, but instead of enjoing the wild life, it was more about trying to survive. We did. From time to time we got to a sheltered bay, and the sun would come out to dry us. Then we could feel the real Abel Tasman experience and it was great. Daniel even got to swim for a few sunny (but very cold) moments in a beautiful sechluded beach only accesible by kayak.
On the third day the weather changed to the better. It was nice because we were walking back in the sun, but envying when we looked at other kayakers rowing with ease in the calm sea. Somehow, the walk which was supposed to be realy easy (no climbes, a track for families ext.) was realy hard. Maybe it was the fact we had to catch the bus at the end of the route, so we had to walk the 20 km without stopping. Still it was very beautiful. Tropic forest, lots of palm trees going all the way to the blue and yellow beaches. The tidal beach crossings were fun (waiting till low tide to cross what was a few hours ago deep sea). We walked bare footed on what was the bottom of the ocean looking at the amazing nombers of shells.
In conclusion. Abel Tasman was not what we thought it would be, but it was still a lot of fun.

We have neglected the site for over a month. It was a race to do as much as possible and we had very little spear time. Tom joined us for the last two weeks in the north island which were a great pleasure. We had many adventures in a very short time. We climbed mountains, canooed in rivers, did water sledging, sand surfing, water fall sliding, caving and much more. We hope to write about all these experiences but we are not sure we'll manage.

In the meantime here are some pictures of an adventure from about a month ago - Farewell spit. It is a long streach of dunes and sand in the northern point of the south island. We walked five hours there, and had an amazing time.

current update, we have a week left in Nz, we're in Auckland trying to sell our car. Hoping it will go quickly.
One mounth to go, kisses to everyone

Neshikot le Kulam!!! 

New pics on the blog.
check them out.
soon to come - the stories.
Update:
we are in Kaiteriteri now about to start the Abel Tasman track (kayaking).

Moving to north island on the 16th

The Catlines area follows the southern coast line. Most of it is a wild beach populated by penguins, dolphins, seals, sea lions and birds. As you drive through it every now and then there's a sign: waterfalls/caves/rocky beach, etc. You can chose if you want to stop and where. Even if you don't stop the simple drive is beautiful. Our destination was curio bay camp-site. Someone told us it's possible to see dolphins from the tent. The powerful Tasman sea accompanied us on our way with diverse beaches, sometimes they were yellow sand ones with seals scattered all around them, lying in deep after noon sleep. At other times they were lined by humongous black rocks with water splashing over them and sea weeds (kelp) dancing beside.
As disciplined tourist we didn't miss the "Slope Point". This point is considered the southern most point of the South Island. Not unique in anyway (beautiful a all else) it's a hot touristic destination. 2o minutes walk to see a sign-post stating that: "5190 km to the north is the Equator, 4080 km to the left is the southern pole". We took the unavoidable picture and headed back.
Another stop along the road was Jack's Blow Hole. It's a twenty minutes walk up a hill to see - a hole. It's 200 meters from the sea and about 140 meters above it, an opening in the cliff revealing a tunnel carved by the sea. It's like being on a whales blow hole - therefor the name.
We got to Curio bay afternoon the campsite is situated on a rocky ridge that penetrates the sea. On one side of this ridge you can see dolphins jumping in the sea just as promised. On the other side resides a penguin colony. If you wait long enough at sunset hours you might see them come out of the water.
We chose the best spot we could find and put up our tent. Searching the horizon for dolphins, we suddenly saw a seal coming out of the water, walking on his fins, just like a satisfied dog. every few steps he would stop for a rest, roll over on his back and scratch itself with its fins. Surprisingly he decided to cross the boarded between wildlife's area and man's, He came up to the campground completely ignoring the "no dogs" sign.

As he got up he found a gathering of people staring him,  and started chasing them and growling. The doc signs all around warned that the seals can be aggressive and one should keep a safe distance of 10 meters. Considerably a hard task to follow when this pretty fast seal is chasing you. At that point we still couldn't decide whether he is playing or attacking and tried to keep the safe distance as ordered as much as possible.
Later that evening after we waited in the cold and saw only one member of the penguin colony, we heard a rumor that the seal is still touring around the campground.
One couple was sitting in the kitchen with the door closed after that the seal stopped them from approaching their tent, Daniel tried to get into the kitchen. They didn't let him in. He knocked - they ignored. Finally they opened the door relived to see a human being. "We though you were the seal" they said in horror. They were planning to sleep in the car if he won't move. The whole camp was terrorised by the seal.

We weren't worried. Our tent was in an area encircled with thick bush and as a consequence we felt rather safe. We started to make coffee when we heard a noise coming from the bush. We thought it's a rabbit. Daniel aimed the flash light towards the noise - it got quiet. We continued to make coffee and forgot about the noise. Then we heard it again. This time when Daniel aimed the flash light we saw a big fin moving in the bush, followed by a puzzled looking face of a seal. We drank the coffee in the car.

The night was quiet, or at least we think it was - we slept like rocks. The next morning we were eating breakfast finally seeing the promised dolphins playing in the waves. The seal was no where to be found. We wondered if he was back in the sea and we might be able to see him there, when suddenly we heard a noise in the bush. It was the seal and he joined us for breakfast. This time we discovered he is really quite friendly. He was sitting near us, rolling on his back like a dog, reminding hilly of Roma, clapping his fins, enjoying the sun and minding his own business. Now that's a way to start your day - breakfast with a seal. No less!

We continued on our way, Touring the Catlines through the touristic "must" points, and through some unknown points. The breakfast with the seal was the highlight of that day.

Water-proof is a trait, like being tall or being patient. It's something that can't be bought. You either have it or you don't. For a large sum of money you can buy yourself a Gore-Tex suit. That still won't help. With effort you may develop water tolerance, even water resistance, but you will never become really waterproof.
Being water-proof means you don't care if you get wet. It's the ability to walk 8 hours in pouring rain, drenched, with soaking cloths and still embracing the idea of taking a cold shower in an icy water fall on your path. To be water proof you have to be a seal, or a penguin. You can also be born in Stewart Island.

Stewart Island is the third largest island in NZ. It is located 60 km south of the south island, and it's very close to Antarctica. You can feel this fact in every icy breeze. The entire Island is a national reserve. It inhabits only 380 people in the small township Oban. Most of it is untamed wilderness. Sandy beaches, rocky cliffs, thick woods and plenty of bays.
Being so remote it's a bird sanctuary, and therefor one of the places where one is most likely to cross path with a kiwi.
Sounds like paradise? It is exactly that - well, the wet version of it.

When we were visiting Stewart island, it rained non-stop for 14 days. If there were still any doubts, they were all gone. We two were certainly not water-proof.

Getting to Stewart Island is another challenge testing ones relationship with water. Crossing the rough Tasman Sea would give a fare competition to any Disneyland roller coaster. It is a rough sail that can only be done in a special ferry (a catamaran). The ferry swings violently in the high waves for the entire 60 minutes journey. A sturdy captain veers the vessel as his female assistant perfumes the occasional smell of vomit mixing with the aroma of free coffee she offers.
Hilly was glued to the window the entire way, gazing at the horizon, combating her motion sickness and winning. 

We never got to dry land. When we got to shore we were greeted with more water. Dropping from the sky, blowing from the sides, peculiar enough it was even raining from the bottom up. Not realizing yet how un-waterproof we are, we set out for a three days hike in rain that doesn't stop. Wrapped from head to toe in nylon suits we were ready to give the weather a good fight. For three days we strolled in the woods soaking the drops, we strolled in the beaches swallowing the sea spray. It was so wet the ground couldn't retain all that water. We were walking in mud.  

The Rakiura track - one of the Great Walks - will be remembered for the mud. There was mud everywhere. Lots of mud. Sometimes just a shallow puddle, other times more than knee high. It never stopped raining, and we never stopped walking in mud.
Before we started the track we were given one useful advice: "embrace the mud, love the mud".
We did just that. We embraced the mud, we loved the mud, even more - we became one with the mud. That meant we got really dirty and it was nice. We felt like children deliberately splashing in mud. < "Mud Nechmud">
Using sticks to test how deep the mud is. Pushing our Gore-Tex shoes to the max.
Still we are not water-proof. 5 hours of walking in the rain is our limit. The sixth hour is no longer fun. Our nylon cloths give in to the water. When they do, we do too.

We walked for three days in non-stop rain and mud. The only time it wasn't raining was when it haled. By the end of each day we got to a warm cozy hut. Took off our wet cloths, changed to dry ones and cuddled next to the fireplace. It was a proof that for us the natural place for water was in a boiling cup of tea.

Stewart Island experience was an achievement and a lot of fun. We are no longer weather dependent, meaning we don't have to follow the sun. We are not seals, nor penguins, nor Stewart Island natives, but over time we sure became water tolerant.