The Milford Sound
What are you planning for the 17th of February 2007. Don't know yet? Well, we strongly recommend that you book the Milford. One can never know. We certainly didn't know a year ago when we were still in Neurology Block and studying for an exam in french grammer. If we'd had known we would have booked it. It's a dam shame we didn't.
What is the Milford you ask? First book it. Then read on.
Milford Sound is the Meka of New Zealand. It's a fjord, one of many (14), in a national park called fiordland, located in the south west of the southern island. The unique geographical/climatological location of NZ has led to the creation of the dramatic fiordland region. More than 6 meters(!) of rain fall here on average a year. That means it rains almost every other day. This results in a dynamic scenery: Sharp mountains dropping in to the dark blue ocean (layered with a coat of sweet water up to 9 meters high), lush thick forests, waterfalls, and streams in abundance, rock and tree avalanches, snowy peaks and glaciers. Truly a remarkable place. The Milford track is the topping of this cake. A four days hike along the sound. This walk is considered by many the most beautiful walk in the world. The demand for it is sky-high, however since it's a delicate environment, only 40 people are allowed to walk the track a day. In order to be amongst the 40 lucky ones, you must book your place a year (!) in advance. You must also part with 300$ a head.
The Milford track is like a diamond: rare, expensive and hard to get. It's no longer a pretty rock, for it's value is that of the myth surrounding it. The myth industry around the Milford is working over time.
Everywhere you go you hear about the Milford Sound. Every visitor's center you enter, every hostel you sleep in, even the coffee shops and the restaurants will brain-wash you with an endless campaign for the Milford Sound.
And it works.
As you travel you meet many people, most of them tourists like you. In the tedious "where are you from, how long are you traveling in NZ, did you buy a privet or van?" ceremony the first question is always: "have you been to the Milford?"
Milford. Milford. Milford.
We didn't understand the fuss.
True - it is the longest sound 16 km long.
True it was visited by Maurise collecting the jade stones along it's remote beaches long before the white Europeans came to this place.
True - it is very beautiful.
But so what! In NZ everywhere you spit the scenery is breath taking. So why does all the buses packed with Japanese swarm to that desolated fjord, 170 km from the nearest gas station. Why is the Milford so special to be the crown jewel? Is it that same illusive reason that makes the Mona Liza shine brighter than all the gems in the Louvre? The Milford certainly gets the fame, but does it justify the glory? We can't answer that. We didn't book the track. Book it now and you may answer that question for us.
With no opening on the track, we decided to go for the cruise (yes the one with all the Japanese). Without any booking we took the car and went to see what's all the fuss. We had such high expectations the only thing we could have expected was a disappointment. We were disappointed. The Milford was not disappointing. It's a beautiful place. The road leading to it is magnificent. So is the Sound itself. Even the touristic cruise wasn't damping the sights. We were impressed.
Although we refuse to title a place as "the most beautiful in the world" we certainly agree that the Milford is lovely.
We camped over night near a crystal blue lake (Lake Gann), had boloneise for dinner and a cup of tea. In the morning greeted by a blue sky clear day we basked in the sun (with sand flies for company), then went for a swim. It was actually nothing more than a short dip. The icy water were cold enough to stop your breath (the lake was really breath taking). We took turns. Daniel was first. Hilly was second. Her Hendel genes couldn't pass the challenge.
http://www.fiordland.org.nz/Explore-Fiordland/Milford-Sound/Default.asp